Welcome to the 111th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we dive into Margiela’s archives, following the trail of footprints defined only by a Tabi’s split toe.
Martin Margiela is far from typical. Having spent the majority of his artistic career deconstructing our everyday values, he stands at the height of couture, widely regarded as fashion’s forefather. Along with his team, Margiela has breathed new life to an abundance of classic silhouettes, ranging from old bed sheets, to the traditional Japanese ‘Tabi’.
Turning back the clock roughly 500 years, we begin our camel toed journey in China. Then known as a ‘Shitouzu’, the Tabi’s predecessor came in the form of a silk or hemp sock, later popularized in Japan among the bourgeoisie. The design was thought to promote balance in separation of the big toe, hoping to clear one’s mind in practice of reflexology.
In the early days, cotton was expensive and rather difficult to obtain, meaning Shirouzu socks were rather scarce. However, as the cotton trade began, they were popularized as a universal staple, worn on the feet of high and low classmen alike. Over the coming years, the Tabi would see a vast style evolution, taking on a new silhouette akin to footwear. By the mid-late 18th century, a rubber sole would be implemented, coined the ‘Jika-Tabi’.
As Japan entered the 19th century, the cloven-toe began to phase out. Despite few trailblazers, the Tabi wouldn’t resurface until Martin Margiela’s seminal 1988 showing. In order to catch onlookers attention, the artisan doused models in red paint before walking the runway, leaving only a fragmented print to follow.
From here, the Tabi would endure a slow rise to stardom, but would dominate as an abstract profile. In Margiela’s words, “The Tabi boot is the most important footprint of my career: it’s recognisable, it still goes on after 25 years, and it has never been copied.” Not only was that Tabi Margiela’s first on-foot release, but it’s abstract lore created a narrative, ultimately pushing the boot to new heights.
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