AW01 Jean Paul Gaultier ‘Marlene Dietrich’ Mesh Spiral Longsleeve

Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2001 collection drew from an illusory setting, taking on much darker tones than his previous collections. Hiding famed portraits beneath mind bending patterns, we’d see militaristic themes in pair with a confrontation of masculinity. Dressing male models in knee high boots, dresses and leggings, a stark contrast became apparent towards the collection’s end, drawing asymmetry between leather biker jackets and synched aviation garments. While muted, the palette was accentuated by outlying hues of red, blue, green and purple, in pair with sporadic tonal fittings. As always, the silhouettes were tight to the body but bellowed outwards, experimenting further with his Maille mesh wear.

 

Above all, the most collection’s most flattering motifs derive from Gaultier’s reference to German born American actress and singer, Marlene Dietch. The creative was known for her diverse portrayals of women in silent film and tours during World War II, as well as a fashionable style and inventive personality. Speaking to the collection’s rebellious hues, her gaze is found beneath 3D lettering, which leaches onto the shoulder and down the sleeve. Plaguing an array of silhouettes, her portrait cascades in a tide of spiralling illusion, doused in a plum hue to finish. Tagged as an Homme size 48 or medium, in pristine condition throughout.