AW01 Jean Paul Gaultier ‘Marlene Dietrich’ Mesh Spiral Longsleeve

Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2001 collection drew from an illusory setting, taking on much darker tones than his previous collections. Hiding famed portraits beneath mind bending patterns, we’d see militaristic themes in pair with a confrontation of masculinity. Dressing male models in knee high boots, dresses and leggings, a stark contrast became apparent towards the collection’s end, drawing asymmetry between leather biker jackets and synched aviation garments. While muted, the palette was accentuated by outlying hues of red, blue, green and purple, in pair with sporadic tonal fittings. As always, the silhouettes were tight to the body but bellowed outwards, experimenting further with his Maille mesh wear.

 

Above all, the collection’s most flattering motifs derive from Gaultier’s reference to German born American actress and singer, Marlene Dietch. The creative was known for her diverse portrayals of women in silent film and tours during World War II, as well as a fashionable style and inventive personality. Speaking to the collection’s rebellious hues, her gaze is found beneath a red spiralling illusion, draping from the chest and onto either sleeve. Finalized with heavyweight black hems, the longsleeve conforms to the wearer’s body, tagged as a size medium in pristine condition throughout.