AW06 Maison Margiela ‘I Don’t Smoke’ Reversible Longsleeve Shirt

Martin Margiela’s Autumn 2006 collection played on tropes of deconstruction and anonymity. Staged in ballroom, models intermingled with guests and friends of the maison, wearing each look as the show progressed. In harsh opposition to the strict guidelines couture frequently abides by, Margiela created a fluent sense of normality between looks. Coating the model’s eyes with reflective, one sided taped, the designer intentionally removed any distinguishable facial features to void a sense of identity. In doing so, the audience was forced to perceive the collection without exterior influence, allowing for a rather authentic viewing experience in heat of a party. Revisiting trompe l’oeil ideals, Margiela extended graphics from the textile to model’s skin, allowing the wearer to become apart of the garment itself. Other artisanal tactics were used as well, up-cycling vintage items to create patched denim and other oddities.

 

Later becoming a height of the Maison’s portfolio, this famed graphic reads “I Don’t Smoke” in a distorted text. Printed inside out, the cherry ree lettering appears inverse when worn ‘correctly’, and reveals the numeric tag if sported in an opposing manner. Instead of simply fading the graphic to achieve this effect, Margiela, as always, goes the extra step to create an immerse stylistic medium. In great condition throughout, tagged as a size 46 or small, fitting oversized.