AW2007 Dior Hedi Slimane “Navigate” Tactical Lapel Jacket

For sale is an Autumn Winter 2007 Dior by Hedi Slimane “Navigate” Tactical Lapel Jacket. Hedi Slimane was born in 1968 within the worldwide fashion epicentre, France. Growing up in this time period, by the age of fifteen Hedi Slimane was idolizing and experiencing the industry sweeping grunge/punk rock movement. Tormented as a child for his lean, skinny physique, he found comfort surrounding himself with the rockstars of Slimane’s era. Household names like David Bowie and Siouxsie Sioux represented what he was condemned for, yet displayed these attributes as something to emphasize, to be proud of. These icons resonated with Hedi Slimane for this very reason, creating an undying imprint on every aspect of both Slimane’s professional and personal life.

 

Hedi Slimane's career in fashion began as an assistant at none other than the world renown label, Louis Vuitton. From here, Slimane was drafted by Pierre Bergé in 96’ as director of menswear and artistic design under Yves Saint Laurent (YSL), merely after a brief period as an assistant in the marketing department. In short, Hedi Slimane single handedly saved YSL from a seemingly inevitable bankruptcy. Drastically remodeling the brand by altering Yves Saint Laurent to the chic, minimal ‘Saint Laurent’, Slimane simultaneously revitalized the label’s precedence and demand in general. However, after four great years at the label Hedi Slimane walked out in 2000 with his highly praised, “Black Tie” collection. This was the true start for the designer, laying down the framework for what was to be expected in the coming decade.

 

Accepting the position for menswear creative direction at Dior that same year, Hedi Slimane was unknowingly on the brink of what is now known as his ‘prime era’. Using his new found design technique showcased within the “Black Tie” collection, Hedi Slimane had mastered his signature style he became instantly recognizable for. A new, skinny cut silhouette emphasizing the lean male figure was unveiled to the public, and to say it was well perceived would be an understatement. Slimane unapologetically reconstructed the male figure piece by piece, conforming the garments to the body type he was once shunned for having. Slimane “was trying to create a look, an attitude with his clothing” (-David Bowie), and was succeeding exponentially. Hedi Slimane designed garments in a way the world had never fathomed before. From the cuts, to choices of fabric, Slimane used strong masculine lines to pay homage to both his idols and past self, but also to shock the industry with ingenuity and a sheer understanding of this foreign silhouette. When asked in a 2004 interview conducted by Tim Blanks, “Is it a new masculinity or… a pure masculinity”, Slimane responded “No, I think it's an evolution of masculinity”, truly embodying the social constructs he was determined to propel forward.

 

Hedi Slimane continued to push the envelope in the universe of menswear, regardless of the official completion his contract with Dior outlined in 2006. Yet in 2007 Slimane finalized his contributions to Dior, debuting his concluding collection, Autumn Winter 07 “Navigate”. Following traditional Hedi Slimane fashion, he departed with an unprecedented collection. This show is widely regarded as the greatest presentation stemming from the seventy-three year old establishment, Dior. From the minimal, slim layered outfits clashing against hardware intensive, utilitarian inspired garments, to the soundtrack following each model strutting down the futuristic catwalk, this collection screamed Hedi Slimane. Beginning with the “Navigate” soundtrack orchestrated by The New Puritans and issued specifically for this event, Hedi Slimane collaborated with the English band to create an airy and weightless yet grunge 15 minute and 38 second masterpiece. Using reverb and delay effects to create a fluffy contrast against the heavy kick drum and gnarly guitar riffs, Slimane set the tone for this show. Amidst the adrogonous, elongated, slim cut aspects to every garment within the collection, look #38 features the greatest piece from the show.

 

The tactical lapel jacket showcased on the thirty-eighth model to walk down the runway demanded attention, frankly, the entire look did. Hedi Slimane paired the lapel atop a zebra stripe mohair sweater, tapered black trousers, a skinny utilitarian esque belt, and finally the infamous combat boots. The contrast in material and cuts, i.e mohair to tapering, creates a slim yet flowing atmosphere when paired garment to garment. Fixating on the jacket however, this is quite possibly the most overlooked garment within the entire collection. Displaying attributes blatantly paying homage to aviation attire in the sense of function concentrated clothing, these aspects are seen throughout the lapel. From the adjustable straps seen on both the bottom hem and shoulder pads, to the industrial buckling securing either breast pocket, the references to classic flight apparel become obvious. Not to mention, the abstract and ingenious zipper medium Slimane has incorporated as opposed to buttoning, truly solidifies the pragmatic approach to a traditional silhouette Hedi Slimane has aced. Although, upon moving away from the inspiration behind this piece, at first glance the tailoring this jacket retains is arguably the most jaw dropping design feat. Showcased by the seamless panelling running towards the soft shoulders and elongated sleeves, finalized by a layered cuff and razor sharp collar, this is no easy task when it comes to tailoring.

In essence, the “Navigate” tactical lapel jacket is the holy grail of haute-couture. To find this jacket for sale is an accomplishment in itself, but in this condition after 13 years of age, at this price point, is nearly impossible. Tagged as an Italian 44, equating to a mens small. This garment is the epitome of innovation in its purest form, a piece of wearable history that represents so much more than style. One of few garments from the departing collection Hedi Slimane left to the public to interpret, to represent and wrap up his seven years at Dior that would eternally impact the fashion industry. Cease this once in a lifetime opportunity to purchase an Autumn Winter 2007 Dior by Hedi Slimane “Navigate” Tactical Lapel Jacket today.