SS22 Maison Margiela ‘Tabi’ Calfskin Leather Split Toe Boots

Martin Margiela’s most iconic and disruptive silhouette in the footwear industry is known as the ‘Tabi’. Reinterpreted in every style of shoe, the profile is most easily recognized due to a split toe detail, which was actually created long before the Belgian designer’s life. Dating back to the 15th century, Japan, the Tabi originates in socks, a product originally exclusive to the upper-class due to a trade embargo with China. Eventually becoming more accessible, the socks were found on field workers, before developing into a rubberized footwear style in the 19th century. Piquing the interest of a young Martin Margiela a hundred years later, the creative would debut his version of the ‘Tabi’ in a leather boot form for his first 1988 collection.

Attempting to manufacture the illusion of a bare foot resting on a heel, the hooved cut and unique clasping mechanism came as a direct reference from a pair of Tabi’s Margiela had seen during a recent trip to Japan. Proving difficult to find a cobbler willing to produce the obscure silhouette, he’d eventually walk the first pair of designer Tabi’s at Café de la Gare in Paris at 4:40 PM. Dipping each model’s foot in red paint prior to the show, a timeless footprint would be born, coating the fabric lined runway in circular heels and split toes. In a rare interview, Margiela explained his through process for the stunt, stating “I thought the audience should notice the new footwear. And what would be more evident than its footprint?”.

Debuting in the Spring of 2022, these calfskin leather boots come equipped with a circular heel and split toe. Fit with the same clasping mechanism as the original Tabi’s, the slim profile is accented by a black colouring and nude sole. Tagged as a size 43 or US 10, they’re in great condition throughout.