Welcome to the 70th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we investigate this season's most outrageous collection, interrogating the Teddy Bear audience to uncover the truth behind Thom Browne’s Fall 2022 show.
This past Friday fashion designer @thombrowne unveiled his Fall 2022 Ready to Wear collection. In the heart of New York City, guests were invited to the Javits Center to take a step into a dream-like wonderland. The runway was located within the glass Pavilion, members of the audience seated on the outermost edge, looking towards an army of 500 suited Teddy Bears - and yes, the outfits were tailored by Thom Browne’s team.
A chair was placed at the top of the so-called “Teddy Talk”, and large doors swung open to reveal a handbag that resembled a weiner dog. Two models walked in a single file line, gripping either of the two handles, equipped with foot long top hats and tweed suits. Just after, the spokesman entered, a clear focal point of the story arc, and introduced the audience’s audience; 500 teddybears.
Accompanied by a narrative which reminisced on the self-discovery and prosperity of New York City, the “Chair Bear” (@ginnngaa) acquaints us with his “favourite New Yorkers” who came to “find their true selves”. Thome Browne later revealed his inspiration can be accredited to the Misfit Toys from Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, explaining the absurdity to follow. Upbeat synths pump into the open runway as our pawed narrator takes a seat, commencing the whirlwind of extremely avant-garde fittings.
Our first authentic look at this collection is formed in spherical hair, a billowing skirt and wrapping stripes. Every model’s makeup feels cartoonish, as a sheen reflects off of cheekbones and cherry red lips. Ridiculously oversized suits and lobster claws walk, chaotic yet uniform in all regards. Lettered blocks are repurposed into handbags, while baseballs are turned into tops. The showing is far from typical, but preaches a singular mantra, be expressive, and let your inner child play.
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