Welcome to the 93rd insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we reminisce on the legacy of Virgil Abloh while speculating on what’s to come for the Louis Vuitton maison.
Positioning Virgil Abloh at the helm of Louis Vuitton was an unprecedented move back in March of 2018. The decision was controversial as the designer fought claims of stolen work and unoriginal ideas, making his first collection a highly anticipated event. Once the dust had settled, his iconic “Rainbow Walk” performance was unveiled, making it clear Abloh had found his creative muse.
Despite the success of Spring 2019, Abloh continued to refine and expand his niche, landing somewhere between street fashion and couture. Giving the age-old namesake new life, he began his progressive takeover filled with vibrancy and child-like aspirations. His unique attention to detail was reflected in each collection’s set, show notes and sound design, always striving to capture a distinct moment.
These defining attributes are what made Virgil Abloh such a prominent industry leader, but are also the most difficult to replicate. Following the designer’s passing in late November last year, Louis Vuitton has yet to announce or even rumor possible candidates for the vacant position. This has led to a whirlwind of speculation from names like Kanye West to Nigo, but is currently open ended.
A rather popular theory is the return of Marc Jacobs, as the core ethos of street culture are shared. In fact, Jacobs brought street style to the label during his 16 year reign, but could also be deterred for the same reason.
Skipping forward, we can look at emerging names like Jonathan Anderson, who has been recently pushing boundaries at Loewe and his eponymous namesake. With a playful approach to the runway, magazines like Vogue have been advocating for his work.
Samuel Ross, founder of A Cold Wall and Daniel Lee of Bottega Veneta are also names in the hat, but for now, it seems the maison will remain stagnant. Spring 2023 was a team-oriented success, granting some breathing room for LV.
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